Snapshot: Markets

The markets are incredible. Aix is known for its markets, which are every day of the week! There are also special vintage markets and clothes markets on certain days. Every single product is from Provence, or at least France, and they are incredible. Let me repeat. I-N-C-R-E-D-I-B-L-E. Every single thing that I put in my mouth is the best thing I’ve ever had. The freshest and juiciest peaches. The ripest figs (not counting the ones I picked off a tree along the street). The tangiest, freshest chevre. The best wine. Everything! And everything is extremely cheap! People who live here actually come to the market every day in order to buy their food for the day. The bread that comes from the bakeries doesn’t have any kind of preservatives, so you have to buy a new loaf every day (and at 50 cents a loaf, it’s not a problem).

I have been living off of goat cheese, bread, and fruit. I sincerely have not had anything else to eat. Is that wrong? Because it feels right.

aix marks the spot

Wow. So I am officially in France. It feels unbelievable to think that I have been looking forward to this my whole life, and now I am finally here.

I’ve had a whirlwind of a year. Sophomore spring to Dublin to Aix… I don’t even feel like the same person anymore.

On the plane over here, I had so many expectations, anxieties, hopes. What would it be like? Would I love France and want to stay? Would I feel at home here? I had no idea.

I’ve only been here a week, so I can’t say for sure, but it is both much better, and also different, than I expected.

My program is through Vanderbilt, and the classes are taught in French with Vanderbilt-hired teachers. However, they are all actually French, so we really are taking college classes in quick, dizzying French. I am taking the History of Provence, Art and Literature in the 19^th and 20^th centuries, Advanced Conversational French, and French Cinema. They all seem awesome and I love the teachers.

It is very exhausting speaking French all day! I’ve definitely improved a TON but it is hard to keep up and concentrate all day. Sometimes I just want to lie down with a pillow over my head and not talk to anyone. But now I can understand basically everything that anyone says, and I can actually speak back, even if I stumble through words.

I really like the girls in the program! It’s interesting seeing what Vanderbilt students are like. Some are super Southern and confirm all the adorable stereotypes. They have monograms, wear Jack Rogers, carry Longchamp bags, and have similar styles.  I also have a roommate from Monaco who is 17 and is preparing to apply to the French version of the Ivy Leagues. She is awesome!

The best part of this program so far (besides the amazing markets and the food) is our host-dinner mom, Manuela. Each night, Monday through Thursday, we eat dinner at this little 60 year old woman’s house. She cooks a 4 course dinner for us every night! And it is so fantastic. Tonight, we had a tomato salad with sea salt from her garden, then les moules frites, mussels with French fries (which were incredible! I had no idea I loved mussels!) then the cheese course, which is always le pain et le brie et le gruyere et le brebis, and then fruit. Figs and nectarines. Yum.

This city is so beautiful and so charming. There is so much history and everyone is so happy all the time. It is always sunny and warm. Always. I love it.

à bientot!

Giant's Causeway

For our last weekend trip, we went to Giant's Causeway!

Giant's Causeway is in Northern Ireland, which is another country, in case you didn't know.

I didn't at first! Short explanation of the two countries:

Ireland has been historically oppressed by the British since the 1600s, arguably, even longer. It was ruled over by the British king, and the vast majority of Irish people were poor, Catholic, and farmers. The loyalist British population was wealthy, merchants, and loyal to the crown.

The Irish potato famine in 1845-1852 convinced many Irish people that British oppression was not working. Many Irish left for America, and there are still theories that the potato famine was actually an attempted genocide by the British government.

Irish Republican organizations were powerful in the late 1800s and early 1900s, and following a period of war, Ireland got its independence- all except 3 counties in the North of the country. That, today, is still known as Northern Ireland, and still belongs to the Crown.

The question of a united Ireland is still extremely debated, and even violent at times.

Despite this tricky background, Giant's Causeway was one of the most fun trips that we have taken. The weather was absolutely amazing, which complemented the scenery perfectly. We had two amazing meals at classic inns, and we spent Saturday sightseeing.

Saturday night, we went into a nearby town to experience the nightlife. It was so interesting to see a rural Northern Irish town- everyone we met was fascinated by the Americans, and their accents were so funny!

Sunday, we visited some scenic monuments, and even got to go horseback riding!

One of the Shanahan daughters was pretty experienced, so she and I got to canter and gallop up the hills, through streams, and through forests. It was definitely one of the most memorable experiences I've had.

It was a beautiful, relaxing, and calm weekend that I won't forget!

Galway!

Last weekend, we took a trip to Galway on the west coast of Ireland. It was our first overnight trip, and we were all so excited!

Friday, after work, we went to Heuston station with all of our bags. The trains in Ireland are really efficient, clean, and quick. Two hours later, we arrived in the quaint town of Galway. Classically, it was raining. 

First things first, we went and bought alcohol from a little window that opened into the street. I bought two bottles of wine. Very authentic.

After dancing to Beyoncé and Kanye West in our room, we headed out to a bar called the Quays (pronounced "key" and it means an area next to the river). There was an excellent band that played "Sex On Fire" by Kings of Leon and a bunch of American music. We met some guys from Galway who told us all about the farms they lived on. 

Afterwards, we ate pizza in the street!

After getting a solid 4 hours of sleep, we woke up and ate the hotel's free breakfast, which was one of the best I've ever had. All-you-can-eat yogurt, homemade granola, and fruit, as well as anything you wanted off the menu. Yum. 

To get to the Aran Islands, we took a bus (1 hr) to a ferry (1 hr) which was so rough that people were throwing up everywhere. I was lucky that I don't get motion sickness, so I was able to go outside and look out over the freezing Atlantic sea. I was being blown around like a doll. After an hour, we finally got to the Aran Islands. It was pouring and freezing. We were very underdressed and miserable, and some people didn't have rain jackets, so we went to get soup. 

We ended up getting really good bread and soup, and we got to dry our hair under the dryers. We were happy and we dried off a bit. Then, we got in a big white van driven by an old man. Haha. It was a bus tour all over the island and we trekked up this huge mountain in the rain to a fort that was so beautiful. I was so delirious from my physical discomfort that I didn't care about how wet and cold I was so I started running around and having a great time. 

That night, we went to the Quays again, followed by a bar called Busker Brownes. There, we danced and crashed a 30 year olds birthday party, ate his chocolate cake, and danced for like an hour downstairs. After, we went and got a slice of the same pizza, then walked back to our hotel. We were going to go back, but there was a huge party there! We danced for another hour, and it was so fun! We danced to ABBA, Taylor Swift, and old bands, and there were older people dancing who were so fun!

The next morning, we walked around Galway and shopped at the markets and listened to street performers. It was such a beautiful little city, and I wish we had more time there. Instead, we went to the Cliffs of Moher, which was beautiful but a tourist trap.

So far, Galway has been my favorite part of Ireland!

Glendalough

On Sunday, we traveled to Glendalough for a little bit of hiking.

We've had absolutely amazing weather, with temperatures in the 70s and clear sunshine. So I wasn't too upset when it started to rain.

Glendalough is known for it's lush, green landscape, hiking, and it's ancient monastic village. In the 6th century, St. Kevin, a monk, lived here. He was renowned for his sanctity and his solemness, living in complete isolation here. Today, a few structures from that time still remain. To us Americans, something from the 6th century was absolutely mind-boggling.

We had a nice lunch and then started hiking. Everything was green, green, green, and I couldn't walk more than 5 steps without taking a picture. At one point, we even saw a family of deer, including two little baby deer who jumped and ran around in circles. I may have squealed a little.

When we got to the Upper Lake, it started to pour, which was appropriate for the mood. We all zipped up our rain jackets, stood on the lip of the lake, and looked out into the mountains. We skipped rocks over the calm, gray water, and listened to the pounding of the raindrops on our backs.

It was beautiful.

Nature is just so much more here. There is something ancient, something wise, in it.

Fourth of July in Ireland

We had a great fourth of July weekend.

It started off with a fantastic, fantastic brunch at the Shelbourne hotel on Saturday. The Shelbourne is one of the most historic (and fanciest) hotels in Ireland. During the Easter Rising in 1916, when the Irish were fighting for a Republic, British soldiers stood on top of the hotel and shot at the Irish revolutionaries in St. Stephen's Green. Then, the Irish Constitution was signed in the hotel, of which a copy still resides. It's also been host to John F. Kennedy and Jackie O when JFK gave his famous speech in Ireland, as well as Grace Kelly and the Prince of Monaco. It is a beautiful place.

We wanted to go to the Jazz Brunch, which started at 12 and was in the fanciest dining room. We were absolutely starving, and after walking around the hotel and stealing fancy cookies and water, we finally sat down in giant, comfy chairs underneath a chandelier. 

We got fresh juices from their homemade juice bar (!!!!) and I ordered vegetarian Eggs Benedict for the first time. It was me, JP, Reed, and Ethan. 

The jazz band was amazing, complete with a Harry Connick Jr. mimic in a purple suit, along with a bassist and a piano player. We listened in awe as they played "Valerie", "Sway With Me" and "Fly Me to the Moon". 

Our food arrived and it was the best meal I've had to date. In my life.

The boys were making fun of me because I actually started crying once or twice during our meal. It may be because I was exhausted and... recovering, but I was just so happy and I felt so lucky to be in that moment. The boys are so fun and sweet, and I love the group that we are with. I feel like I can be my absolute best self around all of them. 

This program is changing me. I don't care how cliché or silly or naive that sounds, because it is true. I have already gained so much confidence that I didn't have before, either from forced social situations, being in a foreign country and having to figure things out by myself, or even from operating within an 8 person group (not an easy thing!) I find myself so much calmer, happier, kinder, wiser. I am excited to see how my personality and mind changes in these next few months.

After brunch, we went to Phoenix Park for a picnic. We brought food, a blanket, and music. I did cartwheels and walked around and smiled at every single person and object that came near me. It was an amazing day.

Kilkenny, Birthdays, and Dublin Pride!

This weekend was the most fun we have had since getting to Dublin.

On Friday, it was JP's birthday, and we all celebrated, maybe a little too much!

We've been going to a famous club in Dublin called Dicey's, and after treating JP to BBQ (why did he want to go to BBQ in Ireland?) and getting some fun cocktails, we ended up dancing at Dicey's all night. We came back, soaked with sweat around 4 am. It was probably the most fun I've ever had out!

The next morning, we reluctantly rolled out of bed late and made brunch for everyone. I made scrambled eggs while the girls made pancakes, and I had at least 3 pieces of brown bread with Kerrygold butter and drippy, delicious jam. We plowed through half a stick of butter that morning.

Saturday was also Dublin pride! Around 60,000 people came to Dublin to walk in the parade, and we all went to the parade to support all of the people who finally got the right to marry, not only in Ireland but also in the US! It was an amazing, amazing moment that I'll always be proud to have witnessed.

On Sunday we went to Kilkenny, which was one of the most fun trips I've ever taken. We had no plans for the day, so we were completely spontaneous. Kilkenny is in the southwest of Ireland, and it was around 1.5 hours away by Irish rail. The city is quaint; it was a medieval city that was inhabited by Vikings, and later even hid King Charles II, the British king, from Oliver Cromwell during the Restoration.

Some highlights from our trip:

• relaxing in the rose garden at Kilkenny Castle and stealing a rose, which was glued to my nose the entirety of the trip because of how beautiful and fragrant it was

• witnessing the first ordination of a priest in the huge and historic St. Mary's Cathedral in more than 25 years!
• climbing the Round Tower of St. Canice's Cathedral... this watchtower was a lookout post and bell tower in the 9th century! Before we climbed the tower, we asked if it was scary. "No way!" answered the women working there. Boy, were they wrong. The tower was 10 feet in diameter, and you climbed 108 ladder steps straight up into the tower. There was no windows inside, and the walls were crumbling. However, the view was worth it, and now I have a significantly stronger stomach.

• taking a break by playing clue and drinking craft beer in a pub

• winding down the night in my favorite bar to date- Left Bank. It is an old bank that has been converted into a lavish, dark wood, swanky pub. We were lucky enough to witness an amazing jazz singer and her band while drinking our wine and Irish coffees

• came back on the train and promptly passed out!

FYI: We have been walking SO MUCH in the city. We calculated it, and I usually walk 5+ miles on a normal work day. A day that we do sightseeing or shopping, we probably walk 7-10 miles. Because of this, my feet have never hurt so much in my life. I come back every day, sore and exhausted, and my feet literally pound when I'm trying to sleep. The plus side is that I feel no need to go to the gym and I can eat all the Kerrygold butter I want. Ha.